Ricotta is traditionally made by recooking the whey from a previous batch of hard cheese, such as Parmesan, but this recipe is a simpler version. Use fresh ricotta in Italian classics like lasagna, or serve with honey and Italian breads.

1 gallon milk
1 tsp citric acid dissolved in 1/4 cup cool water
1 tsp cheese salt (optional)

Add the milk and the citric acid solution to a stainless steel pot. Stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, slowly heat the mixture to between 185 and 195 degrees. As soon as the curds and whey separate (there should be no milky whey, only clear whey), turn off the heat and let sit undisturbed for 10 minutes.

Line a colander with cheesecloth, and ladle the curds into the colander. Mix in the salt with a spoon. Let the cheese drain for 30 to 45 minutes. For firmer cheese, tie the cheesecloth into a bag and hang it from a hook to drain. Serve immediately or refrigerate. Yield: 1 1⁄2 to 2 pounds

1 quart milk
1 tbsp plain yogurt containing live cultures (store-bought or saved from your last batch)

Slowly heat the milk to 180 degrees. Let it cool to 110 degrees, then add the starter yogurt and mix well. Keep covered at about 110 degrees for 8 to 12 hours. Letting it sit at this temperature longer results in a thicker, tangier yogurt. (Inexpensive, electric yogurt makers are designed to keep the temperature constant, but you can use an insulated thermos or cooler to do the same thing.)

At this point, you should have perfectly delicious plain, tangy yogurt! To turn your yogurt into delicious cheese, all you do is strain the whey out of it. Line a colander with cheesecloth and let it drain at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours, or until it reaches desired thickness. Now simply add whatever flavorings you like. Here are a couple simple ideas: toasted nuts, chopped fruit and honey for a sweet treat; or roasted seeds and sautéed garlic, herbs and peppers for a savory cheese. Rely on whatever is fresh and in season. Yield: 8 to 12 ounce